INTRODUCTION
Cosmetics are any material that intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions of the human body. There are many types of cosmetic products had been made nowadays that help people to stay healthy and beautiful.
One of the cosmetics is rouge, also known as blusher. Rouge or blusher is a types of makeup applied to the cheeks to give colour to the face and more dimensions to the cheekbones. Sometimes rouge will be applied together with lipstick and also eye makeup. The reason is to balance and harmonize the colour on the people’s face. Usually rouge or blusher is used by women.
Rouge or blusher comes in different colours but the most common colour of blusher is pink or red. Rouge or blusher can come in the forms of cream, powder and also liquid suspension. People like to use pressed powder more as it is long-lasting and can be apply to all skin types.
OBJECTIVE
- To formulate dry powder rouge and cream powder rouge.
- To formulate cream rouge from 2 commercial hard lipstick preparations.
- To study the factor affecting the colour shading in powder and cream.
- To evaluate the effect of storage condition on the final product.
PROCEDURE
Powder preparation :
TABLE 2: Concentration of colouring agent for powder rouges
Cream preparation :
TABLE 4: Concentration of colouring agent for cream rouges
DISCUSSION
TABLE 7: Effect of storage condition on products
By analyzing the result of the effect of storage condition on products, we are able to see that the best storage condition for each product is to be stored in the dark. Also, we can conclude that powder rouges are more stable compare to cream rouges especially when products are stored in exposed sunlight. When product is exposed to sunlight, the products are susceptible to chemical reaction due to the UV rays from the sunlight, change in temperature, change in moisture and microbial contamination. Most of the cream rouges have increased colour intensity over time, we can assume that when cream rouges were exposed under sunlight, water from the product evaporates to the air, resulting the decreased volume of water in the product resulting in increased of colorant concentration. As the colorant concentration increases due to the evaporation of water, the colour intensity of the products increases.
C1 C2 C3 C4
Powder preparation :
- 60g of the basic powder formulation are prepared without colouring agent (P0).
- 9.6g of kaolin, 28.8g of talc, 3.6g of magnesium stearate, 3g of zinc oxide, 6g of rice starch, 3g of magnesium carbonate and 3.6g of titanium dioxide are weighed using a weighing balance and are mixed together by using mortar and pestle. The mixture is pushed aside.
- Another 60g of a powder rouge containing 4% of an insoluble grey colouring agent (P4) are prepared.
- 9.6g of kaolin, 28.8g of talc, 3.6g of magnesium stearate, 3g of zinc oxide, 6g of rice starch, 3g of magnesium carbonate and 3.6g of titanium dioxide are weighed using a weighing balance and 2.4g of colourant (grey) is added.
- Another 4 powder rouge is prepared by diluting the 4% powder rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of colour.
- The concentration of colouring agent is 0.5-4%.
TABLE 1: Formulation of basic powder
Basic powder
formulation
|
60g of P0 (0%)
|
60g of P4 (4%)
|
|
Kaolin
|
16%
|
9.6g
|
9.6g
|
Talc
|
48%
|
28.8g
|
28.8g
|
Magnesium stearate
|
6%
|
3.6g
|
3.6g
|
Zinc oxide
|
5%
|
3.0g
|
3.0g
|
Rice starch
|
10%
|
6.0g
|
6.0g
|
Magnesium carbonate
|
5%
|
3.0g
|
3.0g
|
Colourant (Grey)
|
4%
|
-
|
2.4g
|
Titanium dioxide
q.s ad
|
100%
|
3.6g
|
3.6g
|
TABLE 2: Concentration of colouring agent for powder rouges
Code
|
Colourant (%)
|
Amount of P4
(g) |
Amount of P0
(g) |
Total amount of
rouge (g)
|
P1
|
4
|
20
|
-
|
20
|
P2
|
3
|
15
|
5
|
20
|
P3
|
2
|
10
|
10
|
20
|
P4
|
1
|
5
|
15
|
20
|
P5
|
0.5
|
2.5
|
17.5
|
20
|
Total (g)
|
52.5 (~60)
|
47.5 (~60)
|
Cream preparation :
- 80 g of the basic cream formulation (C0) was calculated as shown in Table 3.
- Cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin and borax were weighed accordingly to respective calculated weight.
- All of the ingredients then heated at water bath one after another. Finally, enough water was added to the mixture.
- The cream then left to cool by stirring.
- Next, the formulation of 50 g of cream rouge having 2% soluble colouring agent (C2) was calculated as shown in Table 1.
- Cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax and colorants were weighed accordingly to respective calculated weight.
- All of the ingredients then heated at water bath one after another. Finally, enough water was added to the mixture.
- The
- After that, four other cream rouges were prepared by diluting the 2% cream rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of colour.
- The concentration of colouring agent is 0.5% - 2%.
TABLE 3: Formulation of basic cream
Basic cream formulation
|
80 g of C0
(0%)
|
50 g of C2
(2%)
|
|
Cocoa butter
|
5%
|
4.0 g
|
2.5 g
|
Beeswax
|
12%
|
9.6 g
|
6.0 g
|
Cetyl alcohol
|
1%
|
0.8 g
|
0.5 g
|
Wool fat
|
5%
|
4.0 g
|
2.5 g
|
Liquid paraffin
|
30%
|
24.0 g
|
15.0 g
|
Borax
|
1%
|
0.8 g
|
0.5 g
|
Colourant (Blue)
|
2%
|
-
|
1.0 g
|
Waters qs ad
|
100%
|
36.8 g
|
22.0 g
|
TABLE 4: Concentration of colouring agent for cream rouges
Code
|
Colourant (%)
|
Amount of C2
(g) |
Amount of C0
(g) |
Total amount of rouge (g)
|
C1
|
2
|
20
|
-
|
20
|
C2
|
1.5
|
15
|
5
|
20
|
C3
|
1
|
10
|
10
|
20
|
C4
|
0.5
|
5
|
15
|
20
|
Total (g)
|
50
|
20 (~80)
|
-
|
 |
| Cream Rouge (from left: C1, C2, C3, C4) |
We have observed and recorded our findings based on the effect of
storage of the preparations and the criteria that we set up for evaluation. We
evaluated our product after a month of storage in the dark and exposed to
sunlight. The criteria is numbered as follows:
- Physical appearance of the product.
- Skin irritancy after being applied on the skin.
- Duration of how long the product lasts on the skin after applying.
- Removability of the product when it is to be cleaned off from the skin.
TABLE 5: Evaluation of powder rouge
Product
|
Criteria
|
Evaluation
|
P1
|
1
|
Smooth and soft appearance
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritation
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 6 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
|
P2
|
1
|
Smooth and soft appearance
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritation
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 6 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
|
P3
|
1
|
Smooth and soft appearance
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritation
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 6 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
|
P4
|
1
|
Smooth and soft appearance
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritation
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 6 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
|
P5
|
1
|
Smooth and soft appearance
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritation
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 6 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
TABLE 6: Evaluation of cream rouge
Product
|
Criteria
|
Evaluation
|
C1
|
1
|
Greasy but have smooth surface
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritancy
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 5 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
|
C2
|
1
|
Quite greasy, oil is present on the surface but
creamy consistency is preserved
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritancy
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 3 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
|
C3
|
1
|
Quite greasy, oil is present on the surface but
creamy consistency is preserved
|
2
|
Does not cause any skin irritation
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 2 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
|
C4
|
1
|
Greasy but has smooth surface
|
2
|
Does not cause skin irritancy
|
|
3
|
Lasts for 2 hours
|
|
4
|
Easy to clean and remove from skin
|
TABLE 7: Effect of storage condition on products
Product
|
Stored in the dark
|
Stored in exposed sunlight
|
P1
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
P2
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
P3
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
P4
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity decreases over time
|
P5
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
C1
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity increases over time
|
C2
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity increases over time
|
C3
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity increases over time
|
C4
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
Colour intensity maintains the same as prepared in
the lab
|
By analyzing the result of the effect of storage condition on products, we are able to see that the best storage condition for each product is to be stored in the dark. Also, we can conclude that powder rouges are more stable compare to cream rouges especially when products are stored in exposed sunlight. When product is exposed to sunlight, the products are susceptible to chemical reaction due to the UV rays from the sunlight, change in temperature, change in moisture and microbial contamination. Most of the cream rouges have increased colour intensity over time, we can assume that when cream rouges were exposed under sunlight, water from the product evaporates to the air, resulting the decreased volume of water in the product resulting in increased of colorant concentration. As the colorant concentration increases due to the evaporation of water, the colour intensity of the products increases.
As for one of the powder rouge
product which is P4, one of our group members exposed the product to sunlight
leaving the container cap opened. We can assume that water vapour in the air
was absorbed into the powder rouge resulting in decrease of colour intensity
over time due to increase of volume of water in the product.
Colour shading for cream rouge
C1 C2 C3 C4
Colour shading for powder
rouge
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5
By tabulating the colour shading of
each product, we have concluded that the shades of products at higher
percentages of colorant are darker and
more prominent compared to the shades of products at lower percentages of
colorant which are lighter and less prominent. For the darker shades such as
product P1, P2 and P3, they were more visible when they were put on fairer
skins whereas product P4 and P5 were more visible on darker skins. It is also
the same for product C1 and C2, they are more visible on fairer skin whereas C3
and C4 are more visible on darker skins. Thus, in order to produce powder
rouges and cream rouges, it is important to know how to manipulate the
percentage of colorant used in a product to produce different variations of
colour and shades of the intended product.
Discuss the
effect of soluble and insoluble dyes in powder and in cream rouges.
The effects of using soluble dyes in
cream rouge are very much preferred. Water and oil are used in preparation of
cream rouge, therefore soluble dyes must be soluble either in water or in oil
in order to produce a smooth, even cream. However, the usage of insoluble dyes
would make the cream rouge formulation smeared with uneven colour marks or
spots. This would affect the appearance of the cream itself.
On the other hand, the effects of insoluble dyes are preferred more in powder rouge. Due to the solid properties of powder rouge, it is more suitable to use insoluble dyes due to the its ability to be evenly spread and dispersed in the powder rouge. Also, insoluble dyes will not interact with the moisture on the skin which can give it a more long lasting effect on the skin. However, using water soluble dyes in powder rouge can be troublesome. If there are any moisture that are present in the powder formulation, the water soluble dye can migrate towards the moist area and form precipitates which will ruin the formulation.
On the other hand, the effects of insoluble dyes are preferred more in powder rouge. Due to the solid properties of powder rouge, it is more suitable to use insoluble dyes due to the its ability to be evenly spread and dispersed in the powder rouge. Also, insoluble dyes will not interact with the moisture on the skin which can give it a more long lasting effect on the skin. However, using water soluble dyes in powder rouge can be troublesome. If there are any moisture that are present in the powder formulation, the water soluble dye can migrate towards the moist area and form precipitates which will ruin the formulation.
The function of each ingredients and
the rationale of using those ingredients.
The ingredients used in the
formulation of powder rouge are
kaolin, talc, magnesium stearate, zinc oxide, rice starch, magnesium carbonate
and titanium dioxide. The function and rationale of using the listed products
are as follows. Kaolin is used to prevent the caking of powder and ensure a
smooth, even finish of product. Talc is used due to its various function such
as it absorbs moisture, soften and smoothens product, prevent caking and making
makeup to be opaque. Magnesium stearate helps to keep emulsions from separating
into their oil and liquid components and also generally used for its
lubricating properties. Zinc oxide acts as a bulking agent, a colorant, a skin
protectant and as a sunscreen. As for magnesium carbonate, it acts as an
absorbent, buffering, bulking agent and pH adjuster. For rice starch, it acts as
an absorbent. Titanium dioxide absorbs, reflects or scatters light including UV
radiation from the sun to prevent deterioration of product.
As for cream rouge, the ingredients are cocoa
butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, Colorona
Light Blue, and water. The function and rationale of using the listed
products are as follows. Cocoa butter is used to form a barrier on the skin’s
surface by slowing the loss of water from the skin. Beeswax is used to keep an
emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components especially for
products that needs a creamy consistency. Cetyl alcohol is used to alter the
thickness of liquid products and to increase the capacity or to stabilize
foams. For wool fat, it is to moisturize the skin and acts as a lubricant on
the skin surface which produces a soft, smooth appearance of the skin. Also, it
helps to form emulsion and blends all ingredients together better. Liquid
paraffin is used as an emollient to treat dry skin. Borax is used to prevent
bacterial growth in the product to avoid any spoilage. It is also used to
control pH of the product. Colorona Light Blue is the colorant of this product.
Water acts as a solvent and forms an emulsion where the combination of oil and
water is required to formulate a creamy product.
SHORTCOMINGS
When we were
preparing the ingredients for the cream rouge, we weighed each ingredients
strictly according to the calculated cream formulation. However, this leads to
the incorrect composition of the intended product due to the properties of some
ingredients that tends to stick on to the weighing boat. This causes inaccuracy
in cream rouge formulation. Therefore, preparation of ingredients must be done
in excess.
Besides, when
we were preparing the powder rouge, we were unable to mix the basic powder
formulation evenly with the 4% powder rouge due to the formation of small granules
when mixing. This causes the uneven powder rouge texture. Thus, it is
preferable to sieve the powdered ingredients beforehand so that the formation
of small granules when mixing can be avoided.
Also, during
the mixing of powder rouges in the pestle and mortar, the powdered mixtures
tend to stick on the surface of the pestle and mortar. This causes the uneven
mixing of the powder rouges. Hence, the
correct technique of using the pestle and mortar needed to be learned
beforehand not to forget to wipe the surface of pestle and mortar from any
moisture to avoid powdered ingredients sticking to the surface.
CONCLUSION
REFERENCE
1. Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. (2017). Retrieved from Campaign for Safe Cosmetics web site: http://www.safecosmetics.org/
2. Cosmetics Info. (2016). Retrieved from Cosmetics Info Web site: http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient-alphabetical
3. James Bennett. (2017). cosmetics and skin. Retrieved from cosmetics and skin web site: http://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/rouge.php
4. LEAFtv. (2017). Retrieved from Leaf Group Ltd. Web site: https://www.leaf.tv/articles/types-of-cosmetic-products/
As conclusion, we able to formulate the two types of rouges; powder and cream rouges from the experiment. We formulated different concentrations of the colourant used that affect the colour shading in both powder and cream rouges. The higher the concentration of the colourant used, more intense the colour shading. Besides, we found that the storage condition of the rouges also affect the colour shading of the final product. Therefore, to retain the colour of the rouges, it is better to not expose them to the sunlight.
1. Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. (2017). Retrieved from Campaign for Safe Cosmetics web site: http://www.safecosmetics.org/
2. Cosmetics Info. (2016). Retrieved from Cosmetics Info Web site: http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient-alphabetical
3. James Bennett. (2017). cosmetics and skin. Retrieved from cosmetics and skin web site: http://cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/rouge.php
4. LEAFtv. (2017). Retrieved from Leaf Group Ltd. Web site: https://www.leaf.tv/articles/types-of-cosmetic-products/
